), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. Firstly, the armhole is quite low and it is restrictive (I compare this to a subsequent bespoke suit I had made by Ciardi). Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. I would take it back in and talk to the tailor about it. This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. Hi Calvin, Thanks for this. The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. This is great to know. Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. Wow, I think this looks fabulous! If Im not completely wrong, but the diffrence in price is not that very big. I understand there a differences in style obviously. I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. Hi Sam I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. Includes access to the digital magazine. Very nice suit. The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. Hey Justin. No, its a good question. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? Sartoria Dalcuore and W & S; both very interesting articles. in the style breakdown series. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. However, how far does that extend to? 192 following. In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? Next Magento currency ins not converting and in all websites still the same Do listen to the tailor when you talk about it as well. I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. Would you recommend high rise or mid rise? I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. Free shipping for many products! This looks perfect! Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. I dont think this is something you have covered already (apologies if i have missed it). Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. Thank you in advance. As this can take a year or so? Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. Curious on the lapel width used here. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. I am a long time reader of your blog, and I am delighted to say that I am going to be getting my first bespoke suit this fall from W&S based on your review. Richard. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. Explore. hi Simon, very interesting article. Hi Simon. Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. I wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be honest. Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. Kind Regards if you have any other suggestions of tailors for morning wear (through word of mouth) I would be super grateful for the input Would W&S be a good option. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. But when in 1760 Read More. Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. Hi, What am I missing? Id say they are both very good. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! How about the Huntsman 100 product? If to compare, which make is most value for money? In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? It is another interesting approach. There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. I hope that makes sense. The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. 1. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? The width here is 3.75 inches. Thank you very much for your assistance. Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. sorry if its a silly question. Wearing something expressly created for ones body and mind is an intoxicating luxury. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? I also found the comments of others instructive and food for thought. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. How would you compare the style and quality of a W&S suit to either A&S or Steven Hitchcock? I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. As there are no buttons and buttonholes on the fittings, I couldnt detect this issue. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. We specialise in handcrafted bespoke suits that are constructed from the finest natural materials and express a timeless elegance. Great thank you very much! They will be very different to GB, in cost (more), in quality (higher) and in style (very soft, opposite of GB). There are cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the look you want. Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. I dont know her which says something. Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. The jacket theyve made me has jumped immediately into top place as both my best fitting AND most casually comfortable piece of clothing: the shoulders are just what I wanted, even softer (much softer) than in the suit jacket; there remains, despite the soft structure, a bit of English drape that I love in the chest; and really its the waist that is absolutely sublime a perfect pinch, fitting me so well between the arm holes and waist; most of all, the skirt is truly the most beautiful Ive worn in a jacket, with even the snifter-shaped patch pockets perfectly proportioned for its exquisite lines. Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. A little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine, but not more. I wouldnt say theres any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same style, and the same quality. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. I assume she was one of the people that fitted you? Accepting your assurances that it is navy, I think it looks great and would do well in my eyes for my perception of business which may differ from those in the financial sector, I didnt Im afraid no, so I dont have the cost. It also depends how close the styles are. Thanks, and great suggestions. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. . Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. Looking forward to know your thoughts. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. Yes I would. However, I will not be returning to W&S because I believe the suit was compromised in cut, not so much in make. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. Like the lap seam down the back of the jacket (an idea I shamelessly copied across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit). Alex N. OK, good Alex. Pinterest. One thing I worry about is whether their business model and pricing is viable in the long term. I wear my suit 12 hours a day but tend to have the jacket hung up most of the time, so really its trousers that are as important to me. Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. How does their house style translate to a relatively casual sports coat (like a tweed jacket with some casual detailing that could be worn down with denim, or up for the office with flannel)? Is your W&S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more? Thank you for getting back to me. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? I am debating a single or double breasted suit in dark navy for my wedding. Thanks. Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. So be prepared that its a risk. Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. She is very kind and nice Im looking forward to stopping by! knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Artisanal Bespoke The Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit epitomises the idea of slow fashion, a backlash against the disposable trends of recent years. A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. I would second that cloth ref. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service Therefore, I will not be going back as I see it as a bit of a risk. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? Hi Simon. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? Thank you. Hi Simon, quick follow up on the cloth and finding the right shade of navy for business. W&S will still be more formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? Thanks simon. Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. I am happy to share my experience/pictures in 4-5 weeks when it is complete, if it is helpful? I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. But then youre paying over twice the price. Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brand's workshop in Chennai, India. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. I mean look how they photographed those models. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. Thanks Simon. Let me know if that doesnt answer your question The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? Perhaps a little collection of posts around the issue would be good. It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. 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